We are back in Uttarkashi, with the heat; however, we have been at over 3000m for the past week. That means it's been quite cold at night and a little chilly in the shade, but the sun at that latitude and altitude is fierce. Hawaii did not prepare me for it. My face and neck are fried even though I regularly wore a hat and sunscreen. I think the sun's heat explains why there isn't snow on the ground at such heights. We were above the tree line at some points.
We've been staying in places with very simple accommodations: bathrooms outside, if at all and electricity only for a few hours at night, if at all; and we've loved every second. One place was called an ashram, and while I did do yoga with an instructor, I'm not sure it would technically qualify as a place of spiritual learning. But it was very simple, and I loved it.
We hiked 23 kilometers over two days from Gangotri Village to the Gangotri glacier, then on top of the (melting) Gangotri glacier (which would probably be illegal in the US), and up to a mountain top/meadow called Tapovan at 4460m (which is higher in elevation than the altitude I was at when I last jumped out of a plane). The climb up to Tapovan is probably as technically difficult as a hike can be without needing equipment. The first half was a rock scramble followed by scaling a rocky, sandy cliff face and crossing a snow-melt stream cascading down it. We felt like champions when we made it to the top. There we spent a night in a cave-like hut that had been built under a giant boulder; then hiked the 23 kilometers back in one day. Needless to say, we're beat.
As far as what we've been seeing, I can't really describe it. As I said before, it's obvious why this is a spiritual epicenter for so many people. Gangotri is said to be the spiritual source of the Ganges river. Thousands of people make pilgrimages there every year to bathe in the glacial river. We did too--it was cold. We met a photographer named James along the way, and he hiked with us for a while; I think his pictures will help give you an idea of the beauty that surrounds here in Uttaranchal (the name of the state). Click here and then go to "A Fifth Season" to see what I mean.
Now we're on our way to Darhmasala and McLeod Ganj where the Dalai Lama is currently living in exile. We're excited to get a strong taste of Tibet without having to get more visas. There should be internet access there as it's now a huge tourist location, so I shouldn't be out of contact as long as I was this last time.
Joel and I have been quite successful at avoiding the heat and rain. The high elevations coupled with my general good fortune have kept us cool and dry. When we descend (like today), it is hot and monsoony, but we'll be heading back up to elevation soon.
I know it sounds crazy, but I think Joel and I are going to complete our first trip to India without going to the Taj Mahal. The weather and crowds down there kind of scare us. We are both confident that we'll be back here one day, so we'll get it next time.
Monday, June 11, 2007
Sunday, June 03, 2007
Day 6
So the last picture I posted was taken in Deviayatal (3000m). Nice, huh?
This one was taken at Chandrasilla at 4000m. Will is on the far left (nice sweater, right?) and Joel's in between us. We could see Nanda Devi (7800m) from there, which is the second largest peak in India... I think. It looked like it was just floating in the clouds. It was a peak seemingly not connected to anything sticking out above white puffs. It was really cool looking adding just a little more surrealism to the already marvelous spectacle.
I think it was over 100 degrees yesterday. It was like opening an oven, so I think it was dry heat too. It was insanely hot, but I didn't want to kill myself, you know? Just pure heat. Today wasn't so bad. We're in Uttarkashi right now and heading to Gangotri tomorrow where the glacier is. We have a 14k trek to a hotel, then a 5k trek to the glacier. We'll leave our big packs in town as we've been doing.
I can't believe it's only our 6th day. We've been going non-stop and plan to keep going.
Dharmasala is on the itinerary--where the Dalai Lama currently resides.
This one was taken at Chandrasilla at 4000m. Will is on the far left (nice sweater, right?) and Joel's in between us. We could see Nanda Devi (7800m) from there, which is the second largest peak in India... I think. It looked like it was just floating in the clouds. It was a peak seemingly not connected to anything sticking out above white puffs. It was really cool looking adding just a little more surrealism to the already marvelous spectacle.
I think it was over 100 degrees yesterday. It was like opening an oven, so I think it was dry heat too. It was insanely hot, but I didn't want to kill myself, you know? Just pure heat. Today wasn't so bad. We're in Uttarkashi right now and heading to Gangotri tomorrow where the glacier is. We have a 14k trek to a hotel, then a 5k trek to the glacier. We'll leave our big packs in town as we've been doing.
I can't believe it's only our 6th day. We've been going non-stop and plan to keep going.
Dharmasala is on the itinerary--where the Dalai Lama currently resides.
Saturday, June 02, 2007
Day Five (of 24 in India)
Namaste!
Internet connections are scarce and cut in and out when we do find them. Plus, brown-outs are frequent here due to the heat and amount of electricity people use to escape it, so it’s usually the hottest times of day that the fans stop turning. (We haven’t found much in ways of AC). I’m not sure how hot it’s been but probably upper 90’s. Will doesn’t think it’s broken 100 since we’ve been here, but I find that hard to believe. I’ve showered only twice since my arrival, and that was two days in a row. Sounds gross, but I’m loving it! (I deodorize often, don't worry.)
Anyway, we are having an absolutely wonderful time. We have traveled up north toward the Himalayan foothills. It is very easy to see why this region is one of the religious centers of the world: it is beyond words. Last night, we spend the night at 3600 meters—cold, but the view of the snowy monstrous peaks in the distance made it all worth it. Hiking at that altitude means we walk 50 feet and take a break. It’s much harder than I expected. We think temperatures got down to the 20’s where we were last night, but we had layers and heavy blankets. The night before we were at 2500 meters--also cold. Neither place had electricity so the meals prepared by the locals were done in clay stoves. It took a while but was very much worth the wait. Pretty much all the food here is vegetarian! I’m in heaven.
We spent 3 hours this morning at the top of a grassy peak (4000 meters and a little chilly) watching the sun rise and highlight the surrounding ranges. It was just the three of us! We had a small mountain top and small stone temple all to ourselves. We enjoyed the silence and let the sun warm us as the air tried to cool us. It was… don’t know what to say other than this was probably the most memorable Shabbat of my life.
Will is going to head back to Delhi to catch a flight home. Joel and I are going to continue on and hopefully climb a glacier—after a few days rest. My poor knees. They’re ok, but the climbs down can be tough.
My camera broke. It’s pretty unbelievable, but Joel and Will both have digital cameras; so it will be easy for them to send me pictures of the trip. They’ve also been really great about handing me the camera when I feel the need to take a shot, so it’s not as tragic as the China-camera situation.
I have so much more to say, of course, but I should go try and find some dinner. I’m also looking very much forward to a shower. Mmmmm, yes, shower.
Hopefully, I’ll post again soon, but I'll try to keep the next one shorter.
Internet connections are scarce and cut in and out when we do find them. Plus, brown-outs are frequent here due to the heat and amount of electricity people use to escape it, so it’s usually the hottest times of day that the fans stop turning. (We haven’t found much in ways of AC). I’m not sure how hot it’s been but probably upper 90’s. Will doesn’t think it’s broken 100 since we’ve been here, but I find that hard to believe. I’ve showered only twice since my arrival, and that was two days in a row. Sounds gross, but I’m loving it! (I deodorize often, don't worry.)
Anyway, we are having an absolutely wonderful time. We have traveled up north toward the Himalayan foothills. It is very easy to see why this region is one of the religious centers of the world: it is beyond words. Last night, we spend the night at 3600 meters—cold, but the view of the snowy monstrous peaks in the distance made it all worth it. Hiking at that altitude means we walk 50 feet and take a break. It’s much harder than I expected. We think temperatures got down to the 20’s where we were last night, but we had layers and heavy blankets. The night before we were at 2500 meters--also cold. Neither place had electricity so the meals prepared by the locals were done in clay stoves. It took a while but was very much worth the wait. Pretty much all the food here is vegetarian! I’m in heaven.
We spent 3 hours this morning at the top of a grassy peak (4000 meters and a little chilly) watching the sun rise and highlight the surrounding ranges. It was just the three of us! We had a small mountain top and small stone temple all to ourselves. We enjoyed the silence and let the sun warm us as the air tried to cool us. It was… don’t know what to say other than this was probably the most memorable Shabbat of my life.
Will is going to head back to Delhi to catch a flight home. Joel and I are going to continue on and hopefully climb a glacier—after a few days rest. My poor knees. They’re ok, but the climbs down can be tough.
My camera broke. It’s pretty unbelievable, but Joel and Will both have digital cameras; so it will be easy for them to send me pictures of the trip. They’ve also been really great about handing me the camera when I feel the need to take a shot, so it’s not as tragic as the China-camera situation.
I have so much more to say, of course, but I should go try and find some dinner. I’m also looking very much forward to a shower. Mmmmm, yes, shower.
Hopefully, I’ll post again soon, but I'll try to keep the next one shorter.
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