Gangotri (Day 14)

We are back in Uttarkashi, with the heat; however, we have been at over 3000m for the past week. That means it's been quite cold at night and a little chilly in the shade, but the sun at that latitude and altitude is fierce. Hawaii did not prepare me for it. My face and neck are fried even though I regularly wore a hat and sunscreen. I think the sun's heat explains why there isn't snow on the ground at such heights. We were above the tree line at some points.

We've been staying in places with very simple accommodations: bathrooms outside, if at all and electricity only for a few hours at night, if at all; and we've loved every second. One place was called an ashram, and while I did do yoga with an instructor, I'm not sure it would technically qualify as a place of spiritual learning. But it was very simple, and I loved it.

We hiked 23 kilometers over two days from Gangotri Village to the Gangotri glacier, then on top of the (melting) Gangotri glacier (which would probably be illegal in the US), and up to a mountain top/meadow called Tapovan at 4460m (which is higher in elevation than the altitude I was at when I last jumped out of a plane). The climb up to Tapovan is probably as technically difficult as a hike can be without needing equipment. The first half was a rock scramble followed by scaling a rocky, sandy cliff face and crossing a snow-melt stream cascading down it. We felt like champions when we made it to the top. There we spent a night in a cave-like hut that had been built under a giant boulder; then hiked the 23 kilometers back in one day. Needless to say, we're beat.

As far as what we've been seeing, I can't really describe it. As I said before, it's obvious why this is a spiritual epicenter for so many people. Gangotri is said to be the spiritual source of the Ganges river. Thousands of people make pilgrimages there every year to bathe in the glacial river. We did too--it was cold. We met a photographer named James along the way, and he hiked with us for a while; I think his pictures will help give you an idea of the beauty that surrounds here in Uttaranchal (the name of the state). Click here and then go to "A Fifth Season" to see what I mean.

Now we're on our way to Darhmasala and McLeod Ganj where the Dalai Lama is currently living in exile. We're excited to get a strong taste of Tibet without having to get more visas. There should be internet access there as it's now a huge tourist location, so I shouldn't be out of contact as long as I was this last time.

Joel and I have been quite successful at avoiding the heat and rain. The high elevations coupled with my general good fortune have kept us cool and dry. When we descend (like today), it is hot and monsoony, but we'll be heading back up to elevation soon.

I know it sounds crazy, but I think Joel and I are going to complete our first trip to India without going to the Taj Mahal. The weather and crowds down there kind of scare us. We are both confident that we'll be back here one day, so we'll get it next time.